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AFRICA TRAVEL M


MOROCCO'S VEGETABLE FOODS
by Habeeb Salloum

No one who has enjoyed couscous, the national dish of Morocco, in all its meat varieties, will dream that in many peasant homes this delicacy is prepared solely from vegetables and semolina. These toilers of the soil who never taste meat for weeks at a time prepare, not only their couscous, but almost all their dishes from grain and vegetables. With the right amount of herbs and spices they create incredibly tasty meals, forming an important part of the Moroccan kitchen - a cuisine with an illustrious history. A great number of the Moroccans firmly believe that no other country's culinary art has reached the exalted heights of their cooking. A number of travellers support this assessment, stating that if the food of this North African country is not the greatest in the world, it stands near the top as one of the world's eminent cuisines.

 

In that spellbinding land with its long sandy coasts, rich plains, towering mountains , and endless deserts, many civilizations have come and gone. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arab's, Spanish Muslims, and the Berbers, the original inhabitants of the country, all had their day. They ruled the country for awhile then faded into history. Their cuisines, with a touch of Portuguese, Turkish and Jewish influences, helped in the creation of the modern Moroccan.

Well-known culinary experts have written that great food and glorious civilizations complement each other. They go on to say that what creates a noteworthy cuisine are: abundance of ingredients; outside influences; a noble civilization; and refined palace life.

Hence, in the elegant palaces of the rich in Fez and Marrakesh where the great Arab-Islamic civilization of Spain had its greatest impact, the culinary art of Morocco reached its epitome of perfection. Paula Wolfert in her book, Couscous and the Other Good Foods From Morocco, writes that Moroccan cooking is the last of the great undiscovered cuisines.

Included in this relatively unknown kitchen with a distinguished past are the tasty dishes of the workers and peasants. In their daily Menues, little meat is utilized. The grains and vegetables are combined with numerous herbs and spices to produce savory and satisfying meals.

The herbs: chervil, garlic, fresh coriander leaves, mint and parsley are blended with the spices: aniseed, cayenne, cinnamon, cumin, ginger, paprika, pepper, saffron, turmeric and ras el-hanout (a blend of spices) to produce mouth-watering dishes. To give these non-meat creations even more zest, onions, olives, pickled lemons, almonds and sesame seeds are utilized extensively.

Soups, the mainstay of the poorer peasants and at times their only meal of the day, are based mostly on chickpeas and lentils. Infused with herbs and spices, they become delightful creations. The most widely prepared of these soups is harira - the ultimate of Moroccan soups. In the cities, the wealthy, in addition to the vegetables, utilize all types of meat to create their mouth-watering hariras. Yet, the peasants' meatless hariras are a match for any of these soups..

Moroccan salads differ to some extent from the usual well-known salads. They are, in most cases, prepared from cooked vegetables and are somewhat zesty but not spicy hot. In the homes of the affluent, they are served at the beginning of the meal as appetizers. However, for the poor, like the soups, they are usually the main course.

As to stews, the Moroccan kitchen would be much poorer without the delectable vegetable tajines. Fragrant, zesty, spicy or sweet, they are always delicious and inviting. Simmered to produce tasty sauces, their enticing aromas, as they cook, makes even the one who has just eaten yearn to sample the simmering dish.

Perhaps, more than any other food, couscous, Morocco's national dish, is cooked by the peasants solely from vegetables. A Berber dish embellished by the Arabs and Spanish Muslims, it is prepared in endless varieties. Pleasing to the eye, it is served on a platter and the couscous is heaped pyramid style with a hollow on top which is filled with the stew. Known as the king of the Moroccan kitchen, it is served at the end of diffas (great feasts) to satiate the hunger of guests. Hence, complying with Arab hospitality that 'no guest can go home hungry'.

For sweets, the Moroccans are known for their creations based on honey, almonds, sugar and flaky dough. The honey and almonds have always been utilized in Moroccan pastry. The sugar and flaky dough were introduced by the Arabs to North Africa and Spain.

With an illustrious background and centuries of evolvement, Moroccan cuisine has made for itself a notch in the cooking of the world. In all strata of society, the housewife prepares her dishes so perfectly that it is considered vulgar to place salt on the table. Usually, she keeps secret her own recipes and improves them with the passing years until they reach perfection.

For one visiting Morocco there is not much chance to try these home-cooked meals. Nevertheless, travellers should not leave the country without having a meal in restaurants set in a converted Moorish-Andalusian palace which are to be found in every large city. Here, with haunting Arab music as a background, one can enjoy a sumptuous Moroccan repast which always includes a number of tempting vegetarian dishes. Such a meal will leave with most visitors, when they return to their native lands, a deep nostalgia for that country's food .

On the other hand, if a person cannot journey to the enchanting and fascinating land of the Moors, these few vegetarian foods will give an insight into their great cuisine.

VEGETABLE HARIRA / Serves about 12

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium sized onions, chopped

3 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 small hot pepper, finely chopped

1 cup lentils, soaked overnight

2 cups cooked chickpeas

2 cups stewed tomatoes

8 cups water

3 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ginger

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 cup rice

4 tablespoons lemon juice

 

In a large saucepan, heat oil, then sauté onions over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper, then stir-fry for a further 5 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, except the lemon juice, then bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 35 minutes or until the rice and lentils are well done, adding more water if necessary or if a more liquid soup is desired. Stir in lemon juice, then serve.

BROAD BEAN PURÉE - BIESAR / Serves about 8

2 cups large dried broad beans, soaked for 24 hours, then skinned

5 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

4 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon oregano

1/2 teaspoon thyme

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 teaspoon paprika

In a pot, place broad beans, garlic and cumin, then cover with water and bring to boil. Cover saucepan, then cook over medium heat for 50 minutes or until beans are cooked. Drain, but reserve the water.

Place beans and the remaining ingredients, except paprika, in a food processor, then add 1 1/2 cups of the bottom part of the reserved water with the sediment and purée.

Place purée in a pot, then heat. Spread on a serving platter, then decorate with paprika and serve immediately.

EGGPLANT PURÉE - DANJLAL / Serves about 8

1 large eggplant

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 medium sweet green pepper, seeded and finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon cumin

l/4 teaspoon chili powder

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tomato, finely chopped

Place eggplant in a 375 F preheated oven, then bake until skin begins to blacken and becomes blistery. Remove and allow to cool.

In the meantime, heat oil in a frying pan, then sauté onion over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add the green pepper, then sauté for further 10 minutes.

Peel eggplant, then mash and add, along with remaining ingredients, except tomato, to frying pan contents. Thoroughly mix, then place on a flat serving plater. Decorate with tomato, then serve.

 

PARSLEY SALAD - SHLADA MADNOUSSE / Serves from 4 to 6

1 large bunch of wide leaf parsley (Italian), washed, stemmed and chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 large Spanish onion, finely chopped

1 medium sweet red pepper, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon dried mint

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup black olives, pitted and halved

Place all ingredients, except olives, in a salad bowl, then thoroughly mix. Decorate with olives, then serve immediately.

CARROT SALAD - SHLADA DISJADA / Serves 4 to 6

1 pound carrots, scraped, washed, then sliced into thin rounds

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

4 tablespoons olive oil

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon cumin

l/8 teaspoon chili powder

Place carrots, garlic and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a saucepan, then cover with water and bring to boil. Cover, then cook over medium heat for 20 minutes and drain.

In a frying pan, heat oil, then stir-fry carrots over medium heat for 10 minutes or until the carrots are cooked.

In a salad bowl, mix the remaining ingredients, including the remainder of the salt. Stir in carrots, then serve hot or cold.


SPINACH SALAD - SHLADA BEGGOULA / Serves 6 to 8

In Morocco, a mallow called beggoula is used when preparing this dish. However, spinach, although not as tasty, is a good substitute.

 2 packages spinach (10 oz 284 g), washed and chopped

1/2 hot pepper, finely chopped

1 teaspoon oregano

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon cumin

4 tablespoons lemon juice

 Place spinach, hot pepper and oregano in a pot, then cover with water and bring to boil.

Cook over medium heat for 3 minutes, then remove from heat and drain.

In a saucepan, heat oil, then add spinach and remaining ingredients, except lemon juice. Stir-fry for 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Stir in lemon juice, then place on a platter. Serve hot or cold.

 

ZUCCHINI STEW - AL-GHARA BI TOMATOM / Serves 6 to 8

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 zucchini,

2 zucchini, 8 to 10 inches long, diced un-peeled into 1 inch cubes

3 medium tomatoes, finely chopped

1 1/2 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ginger

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon pepper

In a saucepan, heat oil, then sauté onions over medium heat for 15 minutes or until they turn golden brown. Add remaining ingredients, then bring to boil. Cover and cook for 25 minutes over medium heat, then serve hot or cold.

 

GREEN BROAD BEANS IN OIL - FOOL BI ZAYT / Serves from 4 to 6

1 pound green freshly shelled or frozen broad or lima beans

1 1/2 cups water

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 cloves garlic, crushed

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/4 teaspoon cumin

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

2 tablespoons lemon juice

In a saucepan, place all ingredients, except the lemon juice, then bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 25 minutes or until the beans are done. Stir in lemon juice, then serve hot or cold.

 

BEAN STEW - LUBIA / Serves 6 to 8

2 cups dried navy or similar type bean, soaked for 24 hours, then drained

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 small hot pepper, finely chopped

3 cups stewed tomatoes

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1/2 teaspoon cumin

pinch of saffron

4 tablespoons lemon juice

In a saucepan, place beans and cover, up to 2 inches above, with water, then bring to a boil. Cover and cook for 1 1/2 hours over medium heat or until the beans are cooked, adding more water if necessary.

In the meantime, in a frying pan, heat oil, then sauté onions over medium heat for 15 minutes. Add garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper, then stir-fry for further 5 minutes. Add frying pan contents and remaining ingredients to beans, then bring to boil, adding more water if necessary. Re-cover, then cook for 30 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary. Stir in lemon juice, then serve hot or cold.

VEGETABLE TAJINE / Serves 6 to 8

4 tablespoons butter

2 medium onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic crushed

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 small hot pepper, finely chopped

4 medium potatoes, peeled, the sliced into l/4 inch thick slices

2 medium sized carrots, scraped, then cut into thin rounds

1 can chickpeas (19 oz 540 ml), with its water

2 cups stewed tomatoes

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ginger

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/4 teaspoon cumin

pinch of saffron

1 lemon, quartered, then sliced into thin slices

1/2 cup pitted green olives

In a casserole, melt butter, then sauté onions, garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, except the lemon slices and olives, then place in a 3500 F preheated oven, then cover and bake for 1 hour, or until vegetables are cooked. Place lemon slices and olives evenly overtop, then re-cover and bake for a further 10 minutes. Serve hot from the casserole.

VEGETABLE COUSCOUS / Serves about 12

A couscousiere is needed for this recipe. However if one is not available a double boiler with a perforated top may be substituted.

2 cups couscous

5 tablespoons butter, melted

4 tablespoons cooking oil

1 large onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 hot pepper, finely chopped

1 can chickpeas (19 oz 540 ml), with its water

2 cups stewed tomatoes

1/2 cup lentils

2 medium carrots, scraped and quartered, then cut lengthwise into 2 inch long pieces

2 medium parsnips, peeled and quartered, then cut lengthwise into 2 inch long pieces

2 medium sized potatoes, peeled and diced into 1 inch cubes

1 small turnip, about 3 inch in diameter, peeled and diced into 1 inch cubes

1/4 cup raisins

3 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon ginger

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon allspice

pinch of saffron

6 cups water

1 teaspoon paprika

1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds

Place couscous and butter in a bowl, then thoroughly mix until all kernels are coated. Place in top part of the couscousiere, then set aside.

In the bottom part of the couscousiere, heat oil, then sauté onion, garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except paprika, and sesame seeds, and bring to a boil, then fit the top part of the couscous filled couscousiere with the couscous on the bottom part and seal the two parts together with a piece of cloth impregnated with flour. Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring couscous once in a while to make sure no lumps are formed, then slowly sprinkle, while constantly stirring, a cup of water over couscous. Cook for further 30 minutes, continuing to stir couscous every few minutes. Remove top part of the couscousiere and ensure the vegetables are cooked. If not, cook for further few minutes.

Place couscous on a large serving platter, pyramid shape, then make well on top. Place cooked vegetables with a little of the sauce in the well, then decorate couscous with paprika and sesame seeds. Serve immediately with remaining sauce in a gravy bowl and remaining vegetables in a separate bowl.

Habeeb Salloum
58 Langbourne Place
Don Mills, Ontario
, Canada M3B 1A9
Tel: 416/445-4558
, Fax: 416/510-2143
E-mail:
habeeb.salloum@sympatico.ca

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