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THE AURA OF CARTHAGE AND HANNIBAL STILL LIVE ON by Habeeb Salloum Standing atop Mount Byrsa, the acropolis of both Punic and Roman Carthage, I surveyed the panorama of the modern spread-out urban centre covering the historic ruins which, without doubt, form an important part of the heritage of humankind. After having a short time before explored the few Punic, also known as Phoenician or Carthaginian, and Roman remains, so far uncovered, it was easy to fantasize about the Punic/Roman wars and their most renowned hero, Hannibal - one of the greatest army commanders in the ancient world and Carthage's most illustrious son. Among its once splendid villas and richly adorned temples, he must have strolled, planning his battles with mighty Rome. Leading his 59,000 men and 40 elephants over the Alps in an epic march, he kept Rome for years under the threat of his troops. Even though he won many battles, he was never able to occupy that city. Eventually, he had to return to defend Carthage. At the Battle of Zama near Carthage, his army was defeated in 202 B.C. and he fled to Asia Minor where, rather than be captured by the Romans, he committed suicide. Today, Hannibal and his city, of which only traces remain, are remembered by modern day Tunisians with pride. Ancient Carthage, once the richest city in the world, is marketed by Tunisian Tourism as a 'storehouse of history'. Throughout the country, hotels and businesses carry the name of its courageous Carthaginian leader and his city. Modern Tunisia owes a great deal to Hannibal in the building of its national character. His city might be no more, but its memory remains. Carthage, derived from the Phoenician Kart Hadascht (new village), was established in 814 B.C. by the Phoenician princess, Elissa-Dido, who had fled Tyre, in present day Lebanon, to escape the wrath of her brother Pygmalion. In the ensuing centuries her descendants created a navy which ruled the seas, guarding Carthage and its empire until, in 146 B.C., the city was destroyed by the Romans and their Berber allies. They razed it to the ground and scattered salt on the ruins to ensure that it would rise again. Roman historians gleefully describe how thoroughly they demolished the city. During the razing, its libraries were burned, hence, all we know of Carthage was written by her conquerors. Yet, only a century later, the Romans built atop the Phoenician ruins, New Carthage and made it the capital of their African province. It quickly grew until it became a cultured and cosmopolitan urban centre with a large university and the second largest city in the empire. Subsequently, Christians - Saint Augustine was born here - Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs and Turks took over the city as it gradually declined. According to Edward Gibbon, at the beginning of the 16th century Carthage had only a mosque, a college without students, some thirty shops and five hundred ignorant peasants. By the 19th century, little of the city still stood. It almost became a ghost town after its stones had been pillaged as building materials for other towns. When the French occupied Tunisia in 1881, they built a massive cathedral on the summit of Mount Byrsa - known to its new conquerors as the hill of Saint Louis. It was named after the Crusader King Louis IX who was killed trying to conquer Tunisia and was believed to have been buried here. After the French occupation, his supposed bones were taken back to France. Atop his burial spot, the Catholic Carmelite Order decided to carry on his Crusade to Christianize North Africa. They built the cathedral as a base for this modern Crusade. Yet, it all came to naught. The French left in the 1950s and today the cathedral is an empty historic structure, edged by remnants of a Punic neighbourhood. Beside it stands a museum where archaeological finds from Carthage's past are exhibited, relating to three major periods in Carthage's history - Phoenicio-Punic, Romano-African and Arab-Islamic. The wide range of objects from ceramics, mosaics, inscriptions and pottery to sarcophagi, sculptures, and stelae reflect the particular nature of each age. The museum only houses a minuscule part of the remnants of ancient Carthage. A modern sparkling-white town dotted with pine trees and mimosa cover most of the ruins of the Punic and Roman city. Only here and there have parts of the historic metropolis been uncovered. Of these, the most famous are the remains of the Antonine [Antoine] Thermal Baths, covering 3 1/2 ha ( 8.6 ac). The third largest and the most imposing in the Roman Empire, they were completed in 162 A.D. after 12 years of work by thousands of slave laborers. A large drawing on a plaque of the baths in their days of glory and a re-erected granite column 15 m (49 ft) high, topped by a white capital give visitors an idea of the luxury and the immense size of the baths. Even the little that remains is quite impressive. The 2nd century Roman theatre was one of the largest in the empire, but through the centuries it was almost totally razed to the ground. At the beginning of the 20th century, it was partially reconstructed. Today, it retains little from its past, yet, as it did in Roman times, it still draws visitors, providing an attractive setting in July and August for the International Festival of Music, Singing and Dancing. On the Odeon plateau, facing Byrsa's twin hill, there is an entire quarter of Roman villas, a number partially excavated - the most notable being called 'Villa de la Volière'. It is positioned around a courtyard colonnade and from its terrace there is a marvelous view of the sea. As to Punic Carthage, the Magon Quarter near Antonie Thermal Baths was originally Phoenician but rebuilt by the Romans. The Punic Quarter, edging the cathedral is largely preserved because the Romans used the site as a dumping ground during their building of New Carthage. Dating from the 3rd and 2nd centuries B.C., excavation has revealed a collection of carefully built and laid-out houses on a regular grid system. These were endowed in their time with all the conveniences and comforts of that age which included plastered walls, sewers, tiled floors and water tanks. In the ensuing centuries, the Romans inherited these Punic building features and they came down to us as a legacy of Rome. Opposite the Roman theatre stands the tophet - a Punic cemetery, appearing like a shrub-filled elegant garden. In it, a Punic crematorium and many small stone coffins with carvings of children on their face have been unearthed. Guides point to these as indication of child sacrifice. Yet, it has never been proven that the Carthaginians practiced this form of offering to the gods. Only the Romans, Carthage's mortal enemies, have accused them of this cruel practice. As I wandered through Carthage's scattered ruins, I thought of how our world would be today if Hannibal had occupied Rome. No doubt, instead of the Roman gods, the Phoenician god Baal-Hammon and the goddess Tanit would have been the supreme beings of the pre-Christian Mediterranean lands. Who knows what would have come thereafter. Yet, was Carthage truly destroyed? Even though the Romans erased the Punic city from the face of the earth, its renown is imprinted on the soul of modern day Tunisia.   IF YOU GO How To Get There: Carthage is only a suburb of Tunis - tramway costs less than $1. and taxis about $5. Facts About Tunisia: 1) To enter Tunisia, no visas are necessary for travellers from western Europe, Japan, the U.S.A. and Canada. 2) It is best to travel to southern Tunisia in spring or autumn. In summer it is very hot. 3) The currency used in Tunisia is the dinar - one US dollar is worth1.25 dinars. Tunisia is one of the few countries in the world where hotels give a better exchange rate than the banks. 4) In all of Tunisia, taxis are metered and very reasonable; buses and shared taxis (louages) connect all towns and villages; tour companies offer excursions; autos can be rented - small ones for about $60. per day, fully insured. 5) Hotels in Tunisia are very reasonably priced. However, it is to best book through a tour company. They can offer even better prices. 6) Try Tunisian food. It's very tasty. Four of the best dishes are: couscous - prepared in seemingly hundreds of different ways - from sweet to very hot; briq - a thin pastry which comes with a variety of fillings, but always includes an egg; chakchouka - a ratatouille which is offered in many types; and spaghetti cooked Tunisian style - for me the epitome of Spaghetti dishes. 7) There is less crime in Tunisia than in western Europe or North America, but beware of pick- pocketers, especially in crowded trains, buses and souks. 8) When taking tours, make sure the guide speaks English. If you do not ask, French will be the language spoken. 9) Tunisia is the most sophisticated, relaxed and tolerant state in North Africa. Women travellers are very safe when travelling alone. 10) With the exception of its capital, Tunis, Tunisia is geared up for tourism. The most up-to-date touristic facilities are found in all its resorts. Note: All prices quoted are in US dollars. For Further Information, Contact: Tunisia National Tourist Office, 1253 Ave. McGill College, Suite 655, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3B 2Y5. Tel:514/397-1182/0403. Fax: 514/397-1647. E-mail: tunisinfo@qc.aira.com or Tunisian Tourism Office, 1515 Massachusetts Avenue N.W.,Washington, DC 20005 Tel : (202) 466-2546. Fax : (202) 466-2553. or Web: www.tunisiaonline.com and www.tourismtunisia.com Habeeb Salloum DJERBA - TUNISIA'S ISLE OF FORGETFULNESS by Habeeb Salloum No different from Ulysses, who some authors have described as Djerba's first tourist, a traveler will find the people of this Tunisian isle friendly and hospitable. From the first day of a visit, the delightful charms of Djerba (also spelled Jerba) will hold most travelers spellbound. Why this island, which travelers have labeled, 'Isle of Forgetfulness', holds visitors under its spell, is virtually unexplainable. A great many attribute it to its magic halo - a combination of a clear-blue sky, shining white houses, clean and well-kept towns, tree-covered countryside and warm, yet not too hot climate. Whatever the case, a good number of travelers go into raptures when describing this island - made famous by Ulysses. Photo: Villas amongst the palms, Djerba According to Greek mythology, Djerba was the home of the seductive lotus eaters. In Homer's Odyssey, Ulysses almost lost his men when the beautiful maidens of the island fed them the lotus flower. The men were so pleasantly intoxicated by the lotus that Ulysses found it almost impossible to make them return to their ships. Yet, even if this story is only a fable, Djerba has, for many centuries, enraptured travelers who have been lucky enough to land on its shores. A veritable floating garden, rising from the sea like a mirage, the island's spell of forgetfulness which supposedly entrapped visitors in ancient times, has not faded with the passing centuries. It is said that Djerba is a land of dreams, created by nature to enchant the imagination of the human soul. In Djerba's Phoenician and Roman periods, the island and its principal town were known by the Phoenician name of Meninx whose ruins are to be found near the 6 km (4 mi) Phoenician based Roman causeway, which joins the island to the mainland. After the Muslim conquest, Djerba became the haven for an Islamic sect, known as Kharidjite, which today, in its present form, only exists on this island. During the Middle Ages, the inhabitants withstood the most powerful and ruthless rulers of Mediterranean Europe. From the 12th to the 16th centuries, the people of this Isle of forgetfulness fought almost continuously, usually against the Spaniards, but at times against the united kings of Christendom. Djerba is a 614 sq km (238 sq mi) flat island situated off the southern coast of Tunisia, not far from the Libyan border. It is joined to the mainland with a 6 km (3.6 mi) causeway built on a Roman foundation. More than 145,000 inhabitants, mostly of Berber origin, live on this isle of mythology. Its 133 km (83 mi) shoreline abounds with sandy-white beaches, gently lapped by the warm-azure waters of the Mediterranean Covered with trees and flowers, the island is in reality one huge oasis covered with more than 1,000,000 date palms and 700,000 olive trees, some over 3000 years old. In between, small fields of apricots, carobs, figs, grapes, grenadines, lemons, mandarins, oranges and pomegranates cover almost every empty space. Only travelers dreaming of Djerba's mythology are usually disappointed, nowhere is the fabled lotus fruit to be found. Here and there amid these fields, watered from some 2700 wells, are the breathtaking white, small villages and isolated homes. The striking white houses, known as menzels, and their architecture, unique to the island, appear like white jewels, sprinkled between the greenery. Their rounded domes and bright snowy color, embellished by sky-blue wrought iron trimmings, sparkle in the sunlight and give the buildings an appealing charm. Inside, there are clean courtyards filled with trees and flowers. Set amid these fairy tale buildings are to be found the some eye-catching 200 small mosques - many of the older ones built as fortresses to ward off invaders. Houmt-Souk, which means market center, with a population of 45,000, is the capital of the island and one of the most picturesque urban centers in Tunisia. It is a well-kept bright town centered around the souk area, overflowing with handicraft products. Traditional clothing, blankets woven since the time of Hannibal, beautifully wrought gold and silver jewelry, leather goods, straw mats and beautiful pottery saturate the markets. In town, two of the most important usual stopovers for visitors are the Museum of Folklore and Popular Art, displaying traditional costumes and jewelry; and the historic fortress of Borj el-Kebir, a 15th century Arab citadel. Interesting to many tourists is the plaque nearby marking the spot where once 5000 skulls of a Spanish defeat were once piled pyramid style. Even though overpowered by Houmt-Souk, each of the other tiny towns on the island, is noted for some specialty in its artisan's handiwork or is a place of historic importance. Ajim, from where a ferry can be taken to the mainland, is a sponge fishing town; El- May has a colorful market; Fatou produces fine hand-woven baskets and rush mats; Guellala has been the center for the hand manufacture of exquisite ceramics and pottery since the time King Midas; La Ghriba is noted for its synagogue and adjoining monastery whose foundations were laid in 584 B.C.; Mahboubine is famous for its backyard gardens; Midoun is celebrated for its Gougou dancers; and Sedouikech is well-known for its handmade camel muzzles, fishing baskets and straw hats. Enhancing these and other villages, are Djerba's annual 300 days of sunshine and warm blue waters with their cooling breezes, edged glittering sands, embellished by the many attractive and comfortable modern hotels with the most up-to-date tourist facilities. Without disturbing the calm and peace, 125 of these eye-catching tourist palaces - the largest Dar Djerba with 2,500 beds - built in traditional menzel style, fit neatly into the palm-saturated landscape. Nature and the edifices built by man have merged together to strengthen the island's magic spell. These attractive and comfortable hotels, hospitable and friendly people with a slow-moving lifestyle, breathtaking countryside, mild winters, cool summers and tantalizing sea, make Djerba one of Tunisia's most popular tourist spots. Located on Europe's doorsteps, the island which some call the 'Little Mediterranean Polynesia' has since the time of Ulysses been drawing travelers. Annually, it hosts some 600,000 visitors - 50% of these Germans. With the softness of its sweet-serene air, perfumed with the flowers of the many fruit trees, overshadowed by clear blue sky and ringed by golden sands, this paradise isle entraps even the most skeptical visitor. Our guide had a point when he remarked as we climbed the ferry at Ajim for the mainland, "I always think of Djerba as Tunisia's isle of forgetfulness." IF YOU GO How To Get There: There are good bus connections between Djerba and all the large urban centers in Tunisia. Djerba also, has an airport through which most of the tourists are processed and has good connections to the city of Tunis and some centers in Europe. When driving, to reach the island, cross from the mainland on the causeway or take a ferry Facts About Djerba and Tunisia: 1) To enter Tunisia, no visas are necessary for travelers from Western Europe, Japan, U.S.A. and Canada. 2) It is best to travel to Djerba in spring or autumn. In summer, the island teems with tourists. 3) The currency used in Tunisia is the dinar - one US dollar is worth1.25 dinar. Tunisia is one of the few countries in the world where hotels give a better exchange rate than the banks. 4) To tour the island, taxis are metered and very reasonable; buses and shared taxis (louages) connect all towns and villages; tour companies offer excursions; autos can be rented - small ones for about 75 dinars per day, fully insured; tour companies offer excursions; but the best way to relish Djerba's atmosphere is to hire a bicycle - the island is flat and very easy to navigate. 5) Hotels on the island are very reasonably priced. However, it is best to book through a tour company. They can offer even better prices. A good hotel to stay in on Djerba is Hotel Melia Djerba Menzel - cost for double room from $30. - $68., depending on season. 6) Try Tunisian food. It's very tasty. Three of the best dishes are couscous. Prepared in seemingly hundreds of different ways - from sweet to very hot; briq - a thin pastry which comes with a variety of fillings, but always includes an egg; chakchouka - a ratatouille which is offered in many types; and spaghetti cooked Tunisian style - for me the epitome of Spaghetti dishes. Also, Djerba is noted for its fresh seafood dishes. One will not be disappointed when dining on these fruits of the sea. 7) There is less crime in Tunisia than in Western Europe or North America, but beware of pick- pockets, especially in crowded trains, buses and souks. 8) When taking tours, make sure the guide speaks English. If you do not ask, French will be the language spoken. 9) Tunisia is the most sophisticated, relaxed and tolerant state in North Africa. Women travelers are very safe when traveling alone. 10) With the exception of its capital, Tunis, Tunisia is geared up for tourism. The most up-to-date touristic facilities are found in all its resorts. Note: All prices quoted are in US dollars. For Further Information, Contact: Tunisian National Tourist Office 1515 Massachusetts Avenue N.W., Washington, DC 20005 Tel : (202) 466-2546. Fax : (202) 466-2553. E-mail : tourism@tunisiaaccess.com Tunisia National Tourist Office 1253 Ave. McGill College, Suite 655, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3B 2Y5. Tel:514/397-1182/0403. Fax: 514/397-1647 E-Mail: info@tourismtunisia.com