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Discovery
Coast Ferry - Port Hardy to Bella Coola The
Captain Cooks! Aboard the "Queen of Chilliwack,
BC Ferries' staff went well beyond the call of
duty. What's more the food matches the hospitality.
A guitar was on hand for group sing songs, and the
Captain gave lessons on how to bake a date nut
loaf. I
was then introduced to author Chris Weicht
of Vancouver , who's forte is the history of
RCAF bases and West Coast flying boats, such as the
popular Stranrauer.Chris and I share a common bond,
having both enlisted in the Royal Canadian Air
force at Vancouver's Jericho Beach the same year.
He and his wife (also Chris) were headed to the
50th Anniversary Celebration at Shearwater Resort.
Weicht, a former Bella Bella resident and WAG Air
pilot, now lives in Chemainus, BC. Remnants
of the "Santa Bella Trail" a boardwalk
structure built by airmen during off duty hours,
also remain. The Fishermen's Bar and Grill, a 9,000
sq. ft complex, offers waterfront dining, a full
service pub and private lounge. While we spent most
of our time at Shearwater and Bella Bella, at each
port o' call on this new BC Ferry route, you can
enjoy a brief visit, or stay over to explore
archaeological sites, and native
culture. To
complete our circle tour from Vancouver to Port
Hardy, via Pacific Coastal Airlines, and Port Hardy
to Bella Bella via BC Ferries... our final leg was
aboard Brad Widsten's converted tugboat
"Nitinat" to Bella Coola. From here, we enjoyed
some exciting flight- seeing on Wilderness
Airlines. The route took us out of the deep valley
at sea level, to broad, open highlands near Anahim
and Nimo Lakes (a popular fishing area) to the
Inside Passage and on to Vancouver Airport's South
Terminal. Click for Adventures on British
Columbia's Chilcotin
Coast,
part of the famous Inside Passage. Footnote:
Why the Discovery Coast? In 1793, Alexander
Mackenzie became the first white person to
reach the Pacific by crossing North America
overland (other than in Mexico). Born in Scotland,
Alex moved to Montreal, where he joined the fur
trade, his goal being to find an overland route to
the Pacific. Howevr, on his first trip from
Athabaska, he discovered the Arctic Ocean and
charted a mighty river, which he named "River
Disappointment." Mackenzie then returned to Britain
to learn some of the latest advances in navigation
concerning longitude. With this new found knowledge
and improved equipment, he returned to the Canadian
North and accomplished his dream in less than two
years. The idylic spot where he first saw the
Pacifdic Ocean is called Bella Coola. |
On
landing at Port Hardy Airport via Pacific Coastal
Airlines, we were greeted by Mayor Russ
Hellburg, whose pet topic was the new North
Coast Trail via Cape Scott, a challenging hike
that's sure to attract world attention. It will
feature two parallel trails; one near the ocean,
and an inland trail for horseback and biking. Some
say this route will be a step above the popular
West Coast Trail, offering year round facilities
for overnight stops. We then discussed BC Ferries,
having heard glowing reports about a new car ferry
route. BC Ferries' past President 
While
most ferry trips are considered a point (A) to (B)
affair ; an extension of the regular highway; this
route is truly a pocket cruise! After a relaxing
stay at Donna Gault's Port Hardy Airport Inn, we
took the limo to BC Ferries Terminal for a much
anticipated trip to the "Discovery Coast." Better
known as BC's Central Coast, it's also one of the
province's best kept secrets. We sailed in the wake
of famous sea captains and ended our week at Bella
Coola, where in 1793 Alexander MacKenzie, became
Canada's first explorer to reach the Pacific from
overland. Ports of call include a deserted salmon
cannery at Namu, Bella Bella, Ocean Falls, Klemtu
and Bella Coola. Bring your car if you plan to
carry on by highway to the Chilcotin lake country
and Cariboo.
Haida
Giwa and Nitinat: Speaking of local culture...
a highlight of our week on the Central Coast was
meeting Frank and Cathy Brown of "See Quest
Adventures." The couple operates a Native
Interpretation Center at McLouglin Bay, near Bella
Bella, we joined Frank Brown for one of his
Giwa "ocean going canoe" trips; other guests
enjoyed an interpretive walking tour and a
Heiltsuik salmon barbecue. The Giwa is the same
type of canoe used by Vision Quest in its 1,000
mile journey from the Skeena River to Victoria.
With an ten person crew, you can make amazing time,
and with Frank Brown's assistant Eric chanting an
ancient Haida song, we skimmed over the waves
without hardly working up a sweat. That experience
alone was worth the week's trip. Try it; you'll
agree!
Shearwater
and the RCAF: